| In 1974,
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| I went to Mexico
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| to visit my brother
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| who was working as an anthropologist
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| with Tsutsil Indians,
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| the last surviving Mayan tribe.
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| And the Tsutsil speak a lovely birdlike language
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| and are quite tiny physically;
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| I towered over them.
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| Mostly, I spent my days following the women around
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| since my brother wasn’t really allowed to do this.
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| We got up at 3am and began to separate the corn into three colors.
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| And we boiled it, ran to the mill and back,
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| and finally started to make the tortillas.
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| Now all the other women’s tortillas were 360°,
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| perfectly toasted, perfectly round;
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| and even after a lot of practice
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| mine were still lobe-sided and charred.
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| And when they thought I wasn’t looking
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| they threw them to the dogs.
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| After breakfast we spent the rest of the day down at the river
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| watching the goats and braiding and unbraiding each other’s hair.
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| So usually there wasn’t that much to report.
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| One day the women decided to braid my hair Tsutsil-style.
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| After they did this I saw my reflection in a puddle.
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| I looked ridiculous but they said,
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| «Before we did this you were ugly,
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| but now maybe you will find a husband.»
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| I lived with them in a yurt,
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| a thatched structure shaped like a cup cake.
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| And there’s a central fireplace ringed by sleeping shelves
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| sort of like a dry beaver down.
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| Now my Tsutsil name was Lausha,
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| which loosely translated means
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| «the ugly one with the jewels.»
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| Now ugly, OK, I was awfully tall by local standards.
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| But what did they mean by the jewels?
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| I didn’t find out what this meant until one night,
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| when I was taking my contact lenses out,
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| and since I’d lost the case
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| I was carefully placing them on the sleeping shelf;
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| suddenly I noticed that everyone was staring at me and I realized that none of the Tsutsil had ever seen glasses,
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| much less contacts,
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| and that these were the jewels,
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| the transparent, perfectly round, jewels
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| that I carefully hid on the shelf at night
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| and then put — for safekeeping — into my eyes every morning.
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| So I may have been ugly
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| but so what?
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| I had the jewels.
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| Full fathom thy father lies
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| Of his bones are coral made
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| Those are pearls that were his eyes
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| Nothing of him that doth fade
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| But that suffers a sea change
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| Into something rich and strange
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| And I alone am left to tell the tale
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| Call me Ishmael |